Consumer Culture: What Does “Green” Mean?

Reading through some favorite blogs today I got to thinking, what do people really mean when they say “green”?

A post in Grist discusses a house purportedly built with “green” design that the writer suggests, at an unsustainable 5,500 square feet and plotted in a desolate location, is missing the point of “green” building.

A post on World Changing talks about how the entertainment media industry is “embracing green as their new favorite shade of cool.” But again the writer points out how “green” efforts fall short as, for instance, the May issue of Vanity Fair features eco-focused articles printed on 100% fresh tree paper.

So, what does “green” mean anyway? And is it even possible to do anything that is entirely “green?”

I think everyone agrees that “green” means “eco-conscious.” It’s “green” to recycle, to plant trees, to buy long-life lightbulbs, energy efficient appliances, and unbleached paper towels. It’s “green” to keep the thermostat down to 68 in the wintertime, to take public transportation, and not to litter. There is a huge and growing industry for “green” products, not to mention countless “green” blogs and websites where you can learn more. Heck, even Walmart is starting to offer organic foods which, besides being better for your body, are also produced using more eco-friendly methods (theoretically). And that’s all great for the environment. Theoretically.

But isn’t “green” more holistic than that? It’s not just about, say, buying organic beef when you crave a burger. It’s also about being conscientious of where that beef comes from, how the cow was raised, how the workers who tended the cow were treated and paid, how the cow was killed and how its meat was processed, how it was delivered to the store, how the store employees are treated and paid, who owns the store, and so on. But back up, can you even eat meat and still be “green?” What about animal slavery and the negative effects of red meat on the human body? Back to the drawing board…

It seems that the more people get hip to “green,” the more people’s “green” efforts undergo criticism. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, because it challenges us to question and reflect on what “green” means, and that kind of questioning is good for integrity. So “green” isn’t as simple as it seems at first. It is complicated and layered and elusive.

I for one don’t mind that “green” isn’t a black-and-white issue. In fact, maybe “green” is really an ideal, and as such is ultimately unattainable. Maybe we can only aspire to being “green,” but will never accomplish 100% “green” anything. Eco-tourism lodges in the Caribbean may be built to make a minimal impact on the environment, but you still have to take a (gas-guzzling, emissions-spewing) airplane to get there. We buy organic foods, but the brand may be owned by a major international company linked to poor labor policies and environmental negligence. A “green” products store opens, but its walls are lined with shelving made in exploited countries where workers are abused and ill-paid. Is there any way to win?

Maybe not. But maybe being perfectly “green” isn’t the point. What’s important is that we bear in mind the holistic nature of “green” and that we stay alert to our choices. We must not blindly buy “organic” milk without awareness that the USDA definition of “organic” allows factory farm cows to be penned up in crowded outdoor corrals with minimal access to grazing pastures while company owners collect the premiums we pay for said milk. And if that concerns us, it’s up to us to tell our Representatives that we’re not ok with that, because speaking up is as important, and maybe more important, than making “green” purchases.

Being kind to each other, speaking up to fight injustice, casting conscientious dollar votes, and treading lightly on the planet – this is my definition of “green.” Can we do all these things all the time? Probably not. Will some of our choices contradict others? Probably so. But at the end of the day, every dedicated effort counts.

"We must be the change we wish to see in the world."
- MK Gandhi

Technorati tags:
green
organic
eco-conscious
conscientious living

photo by Seng Lin Saw

Susan Pratt-Smith's Jewelry (Finally) Shines!

[Click here to view available work by Susan Pratt-Smith]

Our jewelry displays arrived today, and I have started slowly introducing them to the jewelry in the shop. My plan is to display each jeweler's work against fabric that best show off the pieces, which means lots of customizing by yours truly.

For instance, Erica Schlueter's work will be mounted on wire mesh screens covered in orange-ish silk shantung, and Alana Dlubak's on board covered by soft white jersey, possibly with a white lace overlay. New artisan Alison Mackey (of Park Slope!) will have her jewelry set off by grass green silk. And I'm looking for some nice antique burlap to highlight Connie Verrusio's pieces. I had a blast at Mood Fabrics in the garment district last week finding just the right materials for these displays and am excited to go home tonight and start working on them!

I didn't need to do anything to the standard-issue black velvet displays I got for Susan Pratt-Smith's work though, so I put those up today. We thought of doing something more inventive, but her amazing dichroic glass jewelry really looks best on black velvet. Susan's jewelry has been ill-served by its flat location on the North shelves since it's all about the play of light in the glass. It looks much better now brightly lit in the jewelry case, as you can see in this photo. Finally, Susan's work shines like it's meant to! (For close-ups, click here.)

I'll post more pictures of jewelry all gussied up in its new displays as I complete them. We'll be getting in work by six new jewelers over the coming months, so look for that here too.

This Spring, the jewelry at Greenjeans is really gonna POP!

New Artisans: Jay & Janet O'Rourke

The Guy Gifts you've been looking for have arrived!

A few weeks ago, I mentioned some new polished wooden boxes that had arrived at Greenjeans. Today I have some pictures of them for you in this slideshow, as well as a brief introduction to their makers, artisans and husband-and-wife Jay & Janet O'Rourke of Hood River, Oregon.

The O'Rourke's make all of their boxes to order from fine exotic woods from around the world including ebony, cocobola, and the extremely special pink ivory. Their signature works are their wonderful Hinged Boxes, which come in 5 different sizes from the Pocket Box size (good for pills, rings, etc.) to the appropriately sized Business Card Box, to the Large Box (for cufflinks, keepsakes, photographs, and so on).

Besides the Hinged Boxes, they make a handy Toothpick Box that dispenses one toothpick at a time through a little aperture in the front.

And they make their incomparable Folding Letter Openers which open like straight razors and are very nearly as finely honed.

All of their pieces are impeccably crafted. In fact, they are as close to perfect as anything we've seen. Once cut and assembled, the O'Rourkes sand their pieces progressively with 40 - 800 grit sandpaper, then oils them with a Danish oil and left to dry. When dry they are buffed with a jewelers rouge to remove any oil or scratches. Finally they are sealed with a pure carnauba wax finish. Care for the boxes is simple: keep them away from direct sunlight or high heat, and polish them with a clean cotton cloth to restore shine. They never need to be reoiled or waxed.

A few of these boxes have already found their way into the pockets and bureau drawers of the men in the lives of our shoppers. But we have more here for you, and expect that we'll be working with the O'Rourke's for a long time to come.

So enjoy looking at these beautiful boxes, and please stop by the shop to see them in person and try them out for yourself. Oh, there's a picture of our display case installed in the shop in this slideshow, too!

Word of the Day: Anaerobic Digester

One of my passions, besides craft, happens to be garbage. In my pre-Greenjeans life, I studied with and worked as research assistant for anthropologist Robin Nagle at NYU who teaches a class called "Garbage in Gotham" and is writing a book about sanitation workers and the "labors of waste."

So yesterday when an old colleague from Jae's pre-Greenjeans life (working for a green architecture firm) happened into the shop and told us about a new office building that converts its own garbage into electricity, I was rapt.

He was describing what's called an anaerobic digester, which works like a giant compost pile in the building's basement. He said that paper, food waste, and other organic material gets collected and special bacteria work to break it all down in an oxygen-free (anaerobic) environment. The methane generated from this process gets funneled off and used to produce up to 75% of the electricity the building needs to operate. 75% from garbage!

Obviously, I'm pretty new to this anaerobic digester stuff, but Jae found a few websites to read (click here and here) to learn more. From what I can tell, it seems to be a technology used sometimes on farms but not so much in urban environments, so this new building is quite cutting-edge.

I can't mention the architect's name nor the building's identity, but once completed it will be a major achievement for green architecture in New York City. Yay garbage!

Technorati tags:
anaerobic digester
green architecture
Robin Nagle

Good for a Few Laughs

Grist Magazine is not the place I usually go for laughs -- their environmental news and commentary is informative and smart, but it isn't really that funny. But today I came across a post by local writer and Greenjeans friend Emily Gertz that mentioned another blog called Overheard in New York that is quite funny. She wrote:

Judging from this quip recently overheard in New York at the West 4th Street subway station, the Environmental Defense + Ad Council's new Fight Global Warming ad campaign can't start soon enough:

Girl: ...I mean, who doesn't like being warm? It's not like they call it "Global Sweltering"! So who cares?

Emily's point is well-taken. But I'd never heard of this blog, so I clicked on the link and within seconds I was in a fit of laughter over the truth-is-stranger-than-fiction quotes. I'm not talking about little smirks of recognition that something's funny. I mean belly laughs. (Ok, I've been said to have a kind of dorky sense of humor, but anyway...)

Most of the quotes posted involve sexual innuendo or profanity, but not all of them. One that is even somewhat craft-related, headlined "None of that Drag Queen Lassie Crap," runs like this:

Man: Those are some fine-lookin' sweaters!
Old lady: Do you like them? I made them, you know.
Man: You made those?
Old lady: I did.
Man: Do you think you could make one for him?
Old lady: I would be delighted!
Man: But, you know...I mean...like, for a boy chihuahua.

Ok, these aren't the funniest ones I read, but this is a family show and I'm trying to keep it clean. You'll just have to check it out for yourself if you haven't seen it before. Because laughter is good for you and overhearing unbelievable stuff in New York is one of my favorite things about living here.

White House Collection of American Craft

While browsing The Strand Bookstore last week, I came upon a book titled White House Collection of American Craft. From tea pots and vases to clocks and quilts, the book is filled with pictures of fine works by 70+ artisans from around the country. It struck me as just absolutely perfect, inspired even, that The White House should collect American craft to fill its stately rooms and grand hallways.

The book was 11 years old, but I figured the program must still be going on, and I resolved to find out about it, maybe even let the White House know of the fine artisans represented at Greenjeans. Like the New York Lottery ad says, hey, you never know.

Well, today I googled about the matter, and learned that, sadly, the program is no longer active. The site says that the idea was hatched by Hillary Clinton back in 1993, and ended when the White House changed hands. [3/25/06: But Mary Anne Davis pointed out yesterday (see comment) that Joan Mondale was the one who got the White House involved in collecting craft, and indeed significantly helped raise the profile of American craft back during the Carter administration.] I have no idea why the collections wasn't continued -- what, is American craft too lefty or something? But anyway I wanted to let folks know about what I think was a great program. (It appears the collection is now stewarded by the Renwick Gallery, part of the Smithsonian.)

If you check out the website about the collection, you will be able to take a pretty interesting virtual tour of the White House as it was in the 90s when the collection was on view. The work looks quite striking in such a fancy setting. The picture here is an example. There are also video clips with Clinton and others from whom you may learn more about the program.

I'm not ready to endorse Clinton or anyone else for the next President, but I do have to give her high marks for championing American craft as First Lady. Seems rather enlightened, no?

Technorati tags:
Hillary Rodham Clinton
White House
American craft

New Jewelry Case Arrives!

Today our bright and shiny new jewelry case arrived! Here's a picture of Jae uncrating it earlier today after its long trip from California where it was built. We've got it set up in the shop now, near the window, and have been playing with how different things look inside. The case is a perfect study in the magic of glass and halogen lighting -- everything you put in it looks like a million bucks!

We will be working on our jewelry displays for the case over the next few weeks -- making silk-covered boxes, experimenting with earring trees -- so please stop by and let us know what you think.

It's going to be fabulous once we have the display case Dad's building installed next to it. But already, the glass case makes the shop look a bit sharper, neater, even a little sparkly. It is a lovely way to start Spring!

Wooden Boxes & The West Wing Soothe Me

I was going to write today about the handsome polished wooden boxes we got in yesterday, made from glowing exotic woods by a couple in Oregon who have been woodworkers since 1969. They are ideal "guy gifts," a category our customers have been asking for, since not everyone wears cufflinks. (We have marvelous cufflinks.) But we forgot the digital camera at home, and so we'll have to wait a few days before we post about the boxes.

Instead, I'd like to share with you a cool short commentary by Thomas de Zengotita in the L.A. Times about what he dubs the "How Great Men Once Managed Great Events" genre. From recent biographies of John Adams to the TV show The West Wing, this genre has grown robustly in the last few years, de Zengotita points out, in part because we are craving a sense of reassurance. I'll let the rest of the piece, titled "Powdered Wigs, Pinging Devices Soothe Me," speak for itself.

The reason I share it with you is because Jae and I have an overdeveloped appreciation for The West Wing, and I like any opportunity to talk about the show. We spent so many nights this winter on the couch watching Netflixed episodes in order, basking in the glow of the characters' fictionalized competence portrayed through snappy dialogue and artful lighting... Ahhh, the relief and pleasure it brings. And the excitement, too! It borders on, I'm gonna say it, porn. I can't believe the show is even legal. (Though, of course, it has recently been cancelled. Hmmm...)

De Zengotita is also a wonderfully conversational writer and keen observer of our mediated existence. In addition to the L.A. Times, he writes for the The Huffington Post. His book, Mediated: How the Media Shapes Your World and the Way You Live in It, is recently out in paperback (and has been mentioned in a previous post). Check him out -- he's got his finger on the pulse.

And check back in a couple days to see pictures of those beautiful wooden boxes that also bring great pleasure...
...but without all that pesky mediation.

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Thomas de Zengotita
The West Wing
Media

Table Art by Mary Anne Davis

On her blog today, ceramicist and artist Mary Anne Davis (see previous post) whom we represent here at Greenjeans, posted this wonderful table setting concept. Mary Anne is inspired by the table as art, and her imagining of what that means comes through beautifully in this picture. All our dinnertimes should be so artfully rendered!

We have pieces by Mary Anne here at the shop, and can always order anything else from her that you fancy in any of the 12 colors and endless patterns she works in.

So if you're feeling that your table could use an aesthetic lift, this vivid porcelain tableware is just the ticket. We can help you customize a truly unique and memorable set of dinnerware that will knock the socks off you and your guests. Or if you aren't ready for that kind of commitment, try a new set of soup bowls in lime and blue, a rainbow assortment of new dinner plates, or a cluster of seed and pod vases in the center that coordinate with your existing tableware.

But be warned: this tableware just might inspire singing at the table...

Technorati tags:
Mary Anne Davis
Davistudio
dinnerware

New Arrival: Sol Mate Socks!

Ready for some Spring color?

Come on in and get yourself a pair of Sol Mate Socks!

These colorful cotton socks, introduced in a previous post, are just the thing for these cool, pre-Spring days, reminding us that crocuses and daffodils are just around the corner.

Kids socks come in 3 sizes and are sold in groups of 3, or "a pair with a spare," for $18. Adult socks also come in 3 sizes and are $16 a pair.

And now, here's more than you may ever have known before about a pair of socks...

Sol Mate Socks are the invention of Marianne "The Sock Lady" Wakerlin of South Strafford, Vermont. Marianne started knitting when she was nine years old and her family moved to Spain. “I didn’t speak Spanish at first and was too timid to go play with the Spanish children in the neighborhood. It was during those first few months that my mom taught me how to knit.”

Her mother’s name was Sunny, “and since she taught me how to knit in Spain I named my company after her in a playful way I think she would have appreciated. The Spanish word for sun is ‘sol,’ so Sol Mate Socks is very much rooted in those early experiences with my mother. I don’t know what my first knitting project was, but I do remember that the yarn was blue and that it was hard to keep track of which side of the stitch to go into. I felt challenged.”

Marianne has been knitting now for over 40 years, but it wasn’t until she attended a weekend workshop on knitting socks that her passion was born. ”I found it exhilarating, designing a pair of socks that didn’t match and were knit in random patterns with multiple colors… There were some outrageous socks that came out of these experiments, and I liked the way a pair of mismatched socks could still appear related. The reception to my hand knit socks was so enthusiastic that I simply had to try it as a business.”

That was five years ago. Since then Marianne has stewarded Sol Mate Socks into a robust business. Marianne no longer makes all the socks herself, but she continues to knit by hand to develop new patterns and color combinations, which she uses for designing new sock styles. She employs the able assistance of a small workshop of machine knitters in North Carolina to make the socks, and a group of home-based sewers in Vermont to transform sock overages into dog coats, hats, and scarves. As for materials, the cotton socks have a little nylon and lycra blended in for comfort and durability. Sol Mate Socks are machine washable and dryable and do not shrink or run.

We think you’ll love Marianne’s delightful creations for their quality craftsmanship, comfort, and beauty, and besides as The Sock Lady says...

“Life’s too short for matching socks!”

Greenjeans’ Picks for Best of New York

In response to New York Magazine's new Best of New York issue that came out this week, Jae and I have assembled our own list. It could hardly be described as comprehensive, and it's in no particular order, but this is what we came up with this afternoon. Enjoy!


Best Sushi in Brooklyn: Café Sakura
This tiny, neat spot on 5th Ave. serves superb sushi and sashimi that is much better than it has to be given the prices and location. Also offers a thoughtful, diverse saki list, and specials that are always delightful plays of flavor and balance. The chefs here are the real deal and the service is proper and smooth. The simple garden out back is a quiet oasis. Try the surprisingly delightful annin dessert, the unlikely but great Japanese favorite of almond jello and ginger ice-cream topped with chunks of fresh pear.

Best Soba & Udon Noodles: Soba-ya
They make the soba and udon noodles on site here. Some afternoons you can catch a chef cutting batches of noodles in the dining room. Try them cold or hot in any dish offered for a hearty and comforting yet clean meal. You will leave feeling well taken care of.

Best Ramen: Taku
Like Japanese but not up for sushi tonight? Try Taku on Smith Street, where the multiethnic kitchen turns out great dishes including their specialty Taku Ramen with pork, smoked bacon, and sea vegetables in a tasty broth. The line-caught Chatham cod is served over kabocha squash, ginger sauce, and pink grapefruit – don’t miss it. Cocktails feature house-infused sochu and are expertly mixed.

Best Almond Croissant: Almondine
Crisp on the outside, soft on the inside. Buttery to the nth degree with a pale, not-too-sweet almond paste layered inside, with a sprinkling of powdered sugar on top. Absolutely dreamy.
Runner-up: Fauchon

Best Restaurant for Body and Soul: Applewood
Can’t say enough about Applewood. The food is creative and detail-oriented. Ingredients come from local sources and are organic and seasonal whenever possible. Wine pairings are spot-on and desserts are worth the extra calories. And they host monthly meet-the-farmer dinners. What other restaurant does that?

Best Source for Fabulous Women’s Shoes: Shoe Mine
Owner Temah M. has a great eye for shoes that are design-conscious yet eminently wearable. Featuring lesser-known designers from around the world as well as some tried-and-trues for good measure, Shoe Mine is always fresh and always unexpected in a good way. It’ll be hard to leave without falling in love.

Best Haircut: Ali at Lotus Salon
I never loved a hair stylist before I met Ali. But I love Ali. We all love Ali. She cuts Jae’s hair and his brother’s hair and his cousin’s hair and his other cousin’s hair, and my hair too. And we love her not only because she is smart and kind and bright, but because she does a great great great job on our hair. Simple as that.

Best Little French Bistro: Lucien
Another gem that’s better than it has to be for price and location and because it’s kind of an East Village institution. At night the place is always hoppin’, but once you get installed at a table it feels intimate and exciting. During the afternoon, it is calm and neighborhood-y and you feel like family. And the food, from escargots and pate to the duck confit and French onion soup, is exactly what you want it to be.

Best Hot Chocolate: Café Sabarsky at the Neue Galerie
It just is.

Best Museum Gift Store: Neue Galerie
If you love the aesthetics of the Vienna Secession, and I know you do, this is the place to get your fill. Wonderful books, note cards, wrapping paper styled after wallpaper, actual wallpaper, silver tea services – it’s all here and it’s beautiful. The impeccable museum is definitely worth a visit too.

Best New England Clam Chowder Outside of New England: Pearl Oyster Bar
Fresh, tender bites of clam mingle with savory bits of bacon and pieces of potato and corn in a creamy but not-too-heavy base. Served with the requisite Oyster Crackers, it makes me feel almost home. The oysters are top-notch, too. (See picture.)

Best Place to Get Some Writing Done: Hungarian Pastry Shop
This well-worn and time-tested dive of a coffee shop cannot be beat for getting work done if you’re a writer. It’s full of students and other writerly folks hunched over their books and laptops in the dim bulb light. There’s no music to guide your emotions, and the din of tourists chattering at the front mixed with the clipping of keys and pens creates a glorious accompaniment to the turnings of your mind. Get yourself a serious cheese Danish and bottomless cup of coffee and tuck in for hours of productivity.
Runner-up: The New York Public Library Rose Reading Room

Best Place to Get Red Socks: H. Herzfeld
Though his casual jeans-and-tee-shirt look might belie the fact, Jae has a penchant for bright red socks, and this is the place he gets ‘em. This proper haberdashery offers the best selection of superior quality, mostly British-made red socks of various lengths, fibers, and textures. They have other color socks, too, as well as bespoke suits, ties, hats, pajamas, umbrellas, toiletries, and accessories for the gentleman in your life. Or for Jae.

That's it! Thankyouverymuch! G'night!

When the Weather's Springing Like This...

... what else can one even think of to blog about?

All of a sudden, yesterday New York turned into Spring. Today's the second day of happy sunshine and temperatures in the low 70s. Everyone is out strolling and smiling and enjoying light jackets and even flip flops! Winter seems like it maybe never even happened. (Which granted it barely did this year, but still.)

My friend, Mia, reported to me yesterday that the crocus bulbs she planted last fall, the ones we gave as favors at our wedding, were coming up in her back yard! Nothing but NOTHING signals the start of Spring for me like the popping up of crocuses. I was so inspired by her news and the weather yesterday that I totally recreated the shop window around a theme of daffodils. The picture above is a detail -- yellow kites, yellow books, sunny ribbons, and smiles.

However, while singularly wonderful, Spring is the least reliable season here. A friend once aptly described Spring in New York not as a season at all, but rather as those few glorious days sprinkled nonconsecutively in between Winter and Summer. And to be sure, soon enough we'll be languishing in the dog days of 90-degree heat and humidity. That is, if we don't get hit with another snowstorm first!

And so today, while it is here, let us celebrate and revel in the joy of Spring!

Sweet springtime is my time is your time is our time
for springtime
is love time
and viva sweet love!
- e e cummings